Trade, service, food industry Trade, service, food industry Торговля, сервис, индустрия питания / Trade, service, food industry 2782-2214 50620 10.17516/2782-2214-0038 Товароведение Commodity research Товароведение NATURAL PRESERVING ADDITIVES FOR COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS НАТУРАЛЬНЫЕ КОНСЕРВИРУЮЩИЕ ДОБАВКИ ДЛЯ КОСМЕТИЧЕСКИХ СОСТАВОВ Демина Лариса Николаевна Demina Larisa Nikolaevna demina_ln@list.ru

кандидат технических наук;

candidate of technical sciences;

 Кротова Ирина Владимировна Krotova Irina Vladimirovna

доктор педагогических наук;кандидат химических наук;

doctor of pedagogical sciences;candidate of chemical sciences;

 Николаева Альбина Юрьевна Nikolaeva Albina Yurievna Сибирский федеральный университет Siberian Federal University Сибирский федеральный университет Красноярск Россия Siberian Federal University Krasnoyarsk Russian Federation 20 05 2022 20 05 2022 2 1 91 96 28 03 2022 https://tsfi-mag.ru/en/nauka/article/50620/view

В настоящее время расширяется использование продуктов функционального питания, лекарственных и косметических средств, биоактивных добавок в виде натуральных экстрактов. В качестве сырья для их получения оправданным решением является использование возобновляемой биомассы, в частности вегетативных органов березы повислой (Bétula péndula) и черной смородины (Ríbes nígrum), произрастающих в естественных условиях в Красноярском крае. Авторами исследования установлено, что наиболее эффективным консервантом является водно-спиртовой экстракт листьев черной смородины. Водно-спиртовой экстракт листьев березы повислой обладает несколько меньшей биоцидной активностью. Выявлено, что бензоат натрия более эффективно блокирует рост грибковой культуры Candida albicans в нейтральной, чем в кислой среде, что позволяет рекомендовать применение экстракта листьев черной смородины и березы в сочетании с добавками бензоата натрия для усиления фунгицидной активности консервирующей системы. Доказана низкая токсичность бензоата натрия и экстракта листьев черной смородины по отношению к культурам клеточных волокон. Одновременно выявлена некоторая токсичность по отношению к клеточной культуре экстрактов листьев березы повислой. Полученные результаты позволяют рекомендовать экстракт листьев черной смородины как наименее токсичную природную биоцидную добавку, в то время как экстракт листьев березы повислой можно использовать только в определенных (минимальных) концентрациях.

At present time functional food, medicine and cosmetic products, bioactive additives in the form of natural extracts usage is being increased. As a raw material for their obtaining the justified decision is renewable biomass application in particular, of hanging birch (Bétula péndula) and black currant (Ríbes nígrum) vegetative organs naturally growing in the Krasnoyarsk region. The research authors found out that black currant leaves water-alcohol extract is the most effective preservative. Birch leaves water-alcohol extract has somewhat lower biocide activity. It was detected that sodium benzoate blocks fungal culture Candida albicans growth more effective in neutral than in acidic environment and it allows to recommend black currant and birch leaves extract application in combination with sodium benzoate additives to strengthen conserving system fungicidal activity. Low toxicity in relation to sodium benzoate and currant leaves extract cell fiber cultures and birch leaves and propolis some toxicity was confirmed. The obtained results let recommend currant leaves extract as the least toxic biocide natural additive while birch leaves extract can be used only in certain (minimal) concentrations.

 БАВ натуральный экстракт консервант биоцидные добавки листья черной смородины Ribes nigrum L. ингредиент косметического продукта BAS natural extract preservative biocidal additives leaves of Ribes nigrum L. sort cosmetic product ingredient

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